Solid Wild Cherry Coffee Table
$799.00
Beautiful but sturdy coffee table is uniquely designed to be both elegant and durable. It's gorgeous Wild Cherry wood has 2 coats of polyurethane finish with no stain or wood fillers. The support and frame are 2 inches (nominal) thick and his held together with hidden wood screws.
This premium quality table additionally has:
Edges with 1/8 inch fillets all the around
A top with 2 inch mitered corners
A one inch (nominal) thick solid cherry top 24 by 48 inches
Weight is 75 pounds, height 21 inches
An industrious and quality minded local farmer has meticulously hand crafted this table from wood growing on his farm! That farmer, Fran McAdams!
Woodworkers delight. Master craftsman-farmer Fran McAdams has done it again with this example of elegance and simplicity. True to the Hardywoods (tm) tradition this well-built table measures 24" by 48" at the table top with the trademark mitered corners (no painful bumps to the knees in the dark). The Premium Hardywoods table stands 21" tall with 1" gorgeous cherry boards on the top and shelf on a 2" frame. Sleek curved "A Frame" design gives picnic table look. Yeah, yet another unique and distinct creation!.
Fran's "table talk": "I was born and raised on a farm. Most of my projects have been milled from different varieties of trees off my farm. Some years ago I became fascinated with coffee tables. My main interest was in making designs in the table top out of different kinds of wood. I drew some inspiration from quilt patterns which have always impressed me. At one point I was looking to vary from the standard table frame with 4 legs.
The Table: The table is made and shipped in one piece with no assembly required. Every table has three major components each serving a critical role. These components include two supports, two cross braces and a table top.
The Supports: The supports are made out of 2" lumber planed down to about an inch and a half. I use a 2 X 4, a 2 X 6, and a 2 X 8 to form parts of each support. I always try to notice wood grain, knots, and variations in color so I can assemble these parts in the most structurally sound and most eye pleasing configuration. I have chosen to make the base of the support as wide as the top brace to allow for sufficient stability. The vertical section of the support allows for ample strength without the bulky look of a solid rectangle. The tapers on the top brace and the support base draw your eye to the vertical center post for a pleasing effect. The cutout in the support base allows for a four-footed feel to the table. For strength and alignment, the three support pieces were glued together with dowel pins. All of the exposed edges of the support have a 1/8th radius round over to give it a "softer" feel.
The Cross Braces: Each table has two 2 X 4 cross braces, one is set high and one low. The lower brace ties the two supports together while also working to hold them vertical. The upper brace adds stability while also providing more surface area to attach the top and increasing the bending moment on the top, which allows the table to withstand greater loads (such as someone standing on it).
The Top: The top is made of four or five boards, planed down, with edges jointed, doweled and glued together. The boards and their positions were chosen after consideration was given to structural concerns and eye appeal. All sharp edges have been given an 1/8" radius.
Pre-Assembly: Before assembly, all parts are test fit together to check for any problems that may arise in assembly. All of the screw locations are determined then located and marked. The last step before assembly is to sand each piece. Sanding removes any pencil marks used in layout, and any dirt or smudges, and is the main surface preparation before finish is applied. Care should always be exercised when working with boards at any stage of production. Work area should be clean and boards should be lifted and moved, not dragged across another surface. Boards should also be set down and not "shoved" or be allowed to "drop" on one end. Such handling can cause permanent blemishes or require more labor to correct.
Assembly: All joints are both glued and screwed together for maximum strength and durability. I used a three in one drill through and countersink, for the screws. This allows for perfect alignment and reduction in labor. To hide the screw heads and accent the appearance, I used wooden plugs in the countersunk holes. As I glue the plugs and tap them into place, I try to line up the grain pattern of the plug with the grain of the board I'm putting it into. After the glue dries, I remove the excess plug and use a belt sander to sand flush.
Finishing: Once the entire project is assembled and the glue is dry. I check the project over and correct any structural or cosmetic issues. At this point, I apply two coats of polyurethane with a foam brush. The foam brush helps to reduce air bubbles. When I am satisfied with the project, I offer it for sale."
Fran
Carefully packaged, ships as one piece. No assembly required! Free shipping within 500 miles of South Bend IN. Negotiated shipping prices outside of that range.
This premium quality table additionally has:
Edges with 1/8 inch fillets all the around
A top with 2 inch mitered corners
A one inch (nominal) thick solid cherry top 24 by 48 inches
Weight is 75 pounds, height 21 inches
An industrious and quality minded local farmer has meticulously hand crafted this table from wood growing on his farm! That farmer, Fran McAdams!
Woodworkers delight. Master craftsman-farmer Fran McAdams has done it again with this example of elegance and simplicity. True to the Hardywoods (tm) tradition this well-built table measures 24" by 48" at the table top with the trademark mitered corners (no painful bumps to the knees in the dark). The Premium Hardywoods table stands 21" tall with 1" gorgeous cherry boards on the top and shelf on a 2" frame. Sleek curved "A Frame" design gives picnic table look. Yeah, yet another unique and distinct creation!.
Fran's "table talk": "I was born and raised on a farm. Most of my projects have been milled from different varieties of trees off my farm. Some years ago I became fascinated with coffee tables. My main interest was in making designs in the table top out of different kinds of wood. I drew some inspiration from quilt patterns which have always impressed me. At one point I was looking to vary from the standard table frame with 4 legs.
The Table: The table is made and shipped in one piece with no assembly required. Every table has three major components each serving a critical role. These components include two supports, two cross braces and a table top.
The Supports: The supports are made out of 2" lumber planed down to about an inch and a half. I use a 2 X 4, a 2 X 6, and a 2 X 8 to form parts of each support. I always try to notice wood grain, knots, and variations in color so I can assemble these parts in the most structurally sound and most eye pleasing configuration. I have chosen to make the base of the support as wide as the top brace to allow for sufficient stability. The vertical section of the support allows for ample strength without the bulky look of a solid rectangle. The tapers on the top brace and the support base draw your eye to the vertical center post for a pleasing effect. The cutout in the support base allows for a four-footed feel to the table. For strength and alignment, the three support pieces were glued together with dowel pins. All of the exposed edges of the support have a 1/8th radius round over to give it a "softer" feel.
The Cross Braces: Each table has two 2 X 4 cross braces, one is set high and one low. The lower brace ties the two supports together while also working to hold them vertical. The upper brace adds stability while also providing more surface area to attach the top and increasing the bending moment on the top, which allows the table to withstand greater loads (such as someone standing on it).
The Top: The top is made of four or five boards, planed down, with edges jointed, doweled and glued together. The boards and their positions were chosen after consideration was given to structural concerns and eye appeal. All sharp edges have been given an 1/8" radius.
Pre-Assembly: Before assembly, all parts are test fit together to check for any problems that may arise in assembly. All of the screw locations are determined then located and marked. The last step before assembly is to sand each piece. Sanding removes any pencil marks used in layout, and any dirt or smudges, and is the main surface preparation before finish is applied. Care should always be exercised when working with boards at any stage of production. Work area should be clean and boards should be lifted and moved, not dragged across another surface. Boards should also be set down and not "shoved" or be allowed to "drop" on one end. Such handling can cause permanent blemishes or require more labor to correct.
Assembly: All joints are both glued and screwed together for maximum strength and durability. I used a three in one drill through and countersink, for the screws. This allows for perfect alignment and reduction in labor. To hide the screw heads and accent the appearance, I used wooden plugs in the countersunk holes. As I glue the plugs and tap them into place, I try to line up the grain pattern of the plug with the grain of the board I'm putting it into. After the glue dries, I remove the excess plug and use a belt sander to sand flush.
Finishing: Once the entire project is assembled and the glue is dry. I check the project over and correct any structural or cosmetic issues. At this point, I apply two coats of polyurethane with a foam brush. The foam brush helps to reduce air bubbles. When I am satisfied with the project, I offer it for sale."
Fran
Carefully packaged, ships as one piece. No assembly required! Free shipping within 500 miles of South Bend IN. Negotiated shipping prices outside of that range.